The Fall Family

The first couple of days in Richard Toll I felt a little like I was living in a zoo. My family consisted of my dad, mom, two sisters, 16 and 14, and one brother, 9.  They were extremely nice and welcoming but watched my every move. My first day there I had zero time alone. If for some reason I was alone in my room, also the living room, it only took my younger sister Adja about 30 seconds to realize it, pop her head in, and ask, ‘Tu fais quoi?’ or ‘what are you doing?’ Every time I wasn’t involved in family activities, whether I was getting ready in the morning, working on homework, writing in my journal, etc., always ‘tu fais quoi?’

Then there was the fact that the family slept on the roof. Generally speaking I was very happy about this. Not only was there a wonderful breeze, I had an amazing view of the stars. The only problem was that there was an elementary school across the street from my house and each morning my family set up a little stand where they would sell breakfast to many of the students. School started at 8:15 meaning everyone had to be up, bread bought, and the spread made before kids starting arriving. In other words I got up before 7 every day, and didn’t have to be ready till 9. My last day there it was still dark out when I woke up. Then there were the students themselves. I’ve gotten used to people looking at me when I’m in public and kids having a funny reaction. Generally huge smiles and wanting to shake our hands, every once in a while it looks a little more like fear. These students however just stared. I would often drink my coffee in the doorway and watch the commotion with my sister and kids would just stand there looking at me, which my sister thought was hilarious by the way.  So my first couple of days felt something like living in a zoo, I went to bed and woke up when the rest of the family did, I ate when they put food in front of me, and I was watched by little kids like some exotic animal.

After a few days however I became more integrated in the family. I helped with dinner a few times, started washing my dishes in the morning and would run errands with my sister. One night they decided to take me to the tailor to help pick out a design for my Adja’s Tabaski outfit. I decided not to go on any more random trips with them after the tailor vehemently refused to believe I didn’t want to marry his friend and my sisters were of no help.  For days afterward they would randomly ask me what was new with the tailor and then burst into laughter. The same was true every time my crazy aunt would come over. Like my host mom she only spoke Wolof so after going through all the greetings and here telling me I was like a daughter to her, the next subject was always my relationship status. No matter how many times she visited, the conversation would always be the same (using my broken Wolof I might add) “Where is your husband?”

“I don’t have one.”

“Why not?! You need a husband. You don’t have a husband?”

“No, not yet. I’m not ready to have a husband. I’m a student. I have to finish school first.”

“No. You must marry and then you can finish school.”

A statement to which I had no answer in Wolof and at which point my sisters were just hysterical, my aunt completely serious. Then there was the fateful morning she came over with her son and told me that she would give him up for me because I was like her daughter and I really needed a husband. I then spent the next hour eating breakfast with him and waiting for my ride.

After my first two days in Richard Toll I came home from a day of visiting sugar cane fields and riceries to learn that my host dad had left for St. Louis because his nephew had passed away. It is bizarre to me the way some people here treat death. I don't know how close anyone else in the family was to the boy who passed away, but besides informing me that my dad was in St. Louis, it was never mentioned again. Even when he returned, a week later, he said nothing about why he had been gone.

While life in Richard Toll lacked a few of the creature comforts I've been accustomed to in Dakar, personal privacy and freedom, somewhat regular internet access, and a working toilet, I am going to miss the Fall family. Having kids around, helping out with meals and family chores, and in general being able to experience a different version of Senegalese lifestyle. 

I've got much more to tell but I thought I'd put some picture up now since they're all ready and the blog posts are coming a little slowly.